Getting older is only part of it -- a very small part. It's estimated that 90 percent of wrinkles are due to sun exposure, or photo-aging (and most of that occurs by the time we are 18). "Almost all signs of aging -- crepey skin, wrinkles, brown spots -- are sun-induced," says Robin Ashinoff, chief of Dermatologic and Laser Surgery at New York University Medical Center. The sun's long- and short-wave ultraviolet rays, or UVA and UVB, penetrate the deepest layers of skin, damaging the collagen -- the spongy protein that gives skin its structure, firmness, and elasticity. Fair skin wrinkles more readily than dark skin because it contains less pigment, which acts as a natural sunscreen, blocking some of the sun's damaging UVA and B rays.

Smoking also contributes to the problem: The constant squinting and puckering causes vertical lines around the upper lip and crow's feet around the eyes. Smoking decreases blood flow to the face, robbing the underlying skin layers of important nutrients, and may produce free radicals, scavenging oxygen molecules that can damage skin cells.

Menopause can also play a role; women who have recently passed through it lose an estimated 29 milligrams of collagen from their skin each day, which adds up to about a small pea's worth each month.

The most important thing you can do is stay out of the sun, especially between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when it's almost directly overhead and UV radiation is strongest. Smooth on a moisturizer that contains sunscreen with sun-protection factor (SPF) 15 every morning, even when it's overcast (up to 80 percent of UV rays pass right through the clouds). When you're planning to spend a day at the beach or out hiking, you'll need a sunscreen with a higher SPF. Look for one that promises to shield you from a broad spectrum of ultraviolet rays, not just UVB. Put it on before you leave the house and reapply every two hours. Wear sunglasses (the wraparound kind block indirect light and keep you from squinting) and a hat with a broad brim.

Even if you spent your youth roasting, it's not too late to reverse some of the damage. University of Pennsylvania dermatologist Albert Kligman studied a group of balding Irishmen who rarely left their retirement home. When they first entered the home, their splotchy, furrowed faces had exhibited the ravages of a lifetime spent working outdoors, but after ten years in front of the TV, they showed tremendous growth of new collagen. Kligman says most people will see a big difference after only 18 months of shade.

A few products can also help repair the damage. Renova is the first anti-wrinkle treatment to be approved as safe and effective by the Food and Drug Administration. Delivered in the form of a soothing moisturizing cream, Renova is less likely to be irritating than its precursor, Retin-A. Both contain tretinoin, a vitamin A derivative that sloughs off dead skin cells and increases the production of collagen. Studies show that using prescription Renova for 24 weeks can reduce fine lines and age spots. Apply it at night, since it increases your sensitivity to the sun. If your skin begins to peel or becomes itchy, red, or dry, reduce the dosage until your skin adjusts. Renova is available by prescription only.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are sugarcane, fruit, and milk extracts that slough off dead skin cells to reveal the newer, moister skin below. They may stimulate the growth of new collagen as well. AHAs also attract moisture to the skin, which temporarily plumps up fine lines. Dermatologists can treat you in the office with highly concentrated formulas, but it's unclear whether the more diluted creams you buy over the counter have any noticeable effect on wrinkles. However, they may cause irritation and make you more sensitive to the sun.

Further Resources

American Academy of Dermatology
930 N. Meacham Road
P.O. Box 4014
Schaumberg, IL 60168-4014
phone: (847) 330-0230
http://www.aad.org

References

Last updated March 26, 2009
Copyright © 1998 Consumer Health Interactive

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